We’re as wild for regional Mexican cuisines as the next person, and especially the deeply nuanced, unexpected flavors of Mexico’s interior. But even we were surprised the first time we tasted the startlingly good food from the Huasteca cultural region, which bridges southeastern San Luis Potosí and surrounding states. It’s a place with deep Mesoamerican connections—tribes with pre-Columbian roots still live in La Huasteca today—and that all plays out in its cuisine, with ingredients such as cabuches (native cactus flowers), queso de guaje (a stringy cow’s milk cheese), and acamayas, or freshwater prawns. Near San Luis’s city center, the simple yet convivial Rincón Huasteco restaurant is dedicated to the Huasteca region’s lost-and-found foodways. Meals start with a trio of salsas (the chili morita, which tastes like a smoky jalapeño, is especially good) as well as pickled cauliflower and crunchy pig ears. Traditional Huastec enchiladas—thick corn tortillas filled with tomato salsa and queso fresco, or eggs topped with spicy Serrano chilies—are the most popular items on the menu. If you’re up for a big meal, add the cecina, a thin steak that’s marinated in orange juice and salt before it hits the grill.